Is that outdoor spigot dripping again? Or worse, completely broken? A leaky or damaged outdoor faucet isn’t just a nuisance; it can lead to wasted water, higher utility bills, and even potential water damage to your home’s foundation. Ignoring the problem will only make it worse, and calling a plumber can be surprisingly expensive for such a seemingly simple fix. Fortunately, replacing an outdoor water spigot is a manageable DIY project for most homeowners, saving you money and giving you the satisfaction of tackling home repairs yourself.
This guide will walk you through the process of safely and effectively replacing your outdoor spigot, from gathering the necessary tools and materials to understanding the different types of spigots available. By following these step-by-step instructions and safety precautions, you can confidently address this common plumbing issue and ensure your outdoor water supply is back up and running smoothly in no time. A little preparation and patience can go a long way in preventing future headaches and preserving your home’s value.
What are the most common questions when replacing an outdoor spigot?
What tools do I need to replace an outdoor water spigot?
To replace an outdoor water spigot, you’ll need a pipe wrench (or two, for leverage), Teflon tape (also known as plumber’s tape), a new outdoor water spigot of the correct size and type, a screwdriver (typically flathead or Phillips depending on the spigot’s set screw), and possibly a bucket and rag to catch any residual water.
Having the right tools readily available will make the replacement process significantly smoother and prevent frustration. The pipe wrench is crucial for gripping and turning the old spigot, as well as tightening the new one. It’s best to have two, as this allows you to hold the pipe fitting steady while turning the spigot, reducing stress on the connecting pipes and minimizing the risk of damage. Teflon tape is essential for creating a watertight seal between the new spigot and the pipe threads.
Beyond the basics, consider having penetrating oil on hand if the old spigot is heavily corroded or stuck. Apply it generously and allow it to sit for some time before attempting to loosen the connection. A wire brush can also be useful for cleaning the pipe threads before applying Teflon tape, ensuring a good seal. Lastly, depending on your plumbing setup, you might need a propane torch and soldering supplies if you encounter a copper pipe connection that needs to be unsoldered.
How do I shut off the water supply before replacing the spigot?
Locating and shutting off the water supply is the critical first step before replacing any outdoor spigot. Typically, you’ll find a shut-off valve inside your home, either on the main water line where it enters the house (often in the basement, crawl space, or utility room) or on a dedicated shut-off valve closer to the spigot itself. Turn the valve clockwise until it’s completely closed to stop the water flow.
Before you even think about touching the spigot, ensure the water is truly off. After closing the valve, go outside and turn on the old spigot. If only a small amount of water trickles out and then stops, you’ve successfully shut off the water. If water continues to flow steadily, the valve isn’t completely closed, and you’ll need to either tighten it further or investigate if there’s a separate, possibly older, shut-off valve also feeding that spigot. It’s crucial to identify the correct valve, as turning off the wrong one could disrupt water supply to the entire house. Sometimes, finding the right shut-off valve can be challenging. Older homes may have less obvious plumbing setups. If you’re unsure, start by looking near the water meter or where the main water line enters your home. Some homes also have a separate shut-off valve specifically for outdoor faucets, which are often located in the basement or crawl space near the wall where the outdoor spigot is. If you still can’t locate the valve, consider consulting your home’s plumbing diagrams (if available) or contacting a qualified plumber to help you identify the correct shut-off. They can also advise you on whether the existing valve is functioning correctly and needs replacement.
What size pipe wrench is best for removing the old spigot?
A 12-inch pipe wrench is generally considered the best size for removing an old outdoor spigot. This size offers a good balance between leverage and maneuverability, allowing you to grip the spigot securely without being unwieldy in the often-confined space of an outdoor faucet connection.
While a smaller wrench might seem easier to handle, it may lack the necessary leverage to break free a stubborn, corroded spigot. Conversely, a larger wrench, like an 18-inch model, could provide excessive force, potentially damaging the connecting pipe, especially if it’s old or weakened by corrosion. The 12-inch wrench hits the sweet spot, providing adequate gripping power while minimizing the risk of damaging surrounding plumbing. It’s also a versatile size useful for other plumbing tasks around the house.
Consider the specific condition of your spigot and the connecting pipe. If the spigot is heavily corroded or has been in place for many years, penetrating oil can be applied liberally a day or two before attempting removal to help loosen the threads. Always apply steady, controlled pressure when using the pipe wrench, avoiding jerky movements that could shear the pipe. If the spigot refuses to budge with the 12-inch wrench, carefully consider whether to try a larger wrench or call a professional plumber to avoid causing further damage.
How do I prevent leaks when installing the new spigot?
Preventing leaks when installing a new spigot hinges on creating a watertight seal at all connection points. This primarily involves properly preparing the pipe threads, using appropriate sealant or Teflon tape, and tightening the connections securely without overtightening.
Ensuring leak-proof connections starts with cleaning the pipe threads, whether they are on the pipe extending from the house or on the spigot itself. Use a wire brush to remove any old sealant, corrosion, or debris. Next, apply Teflon tape (also known as plumber’s tape) in the correct direction – usually clockwise when facing the open end of the pipe. Wrap the tape around the threads at least three times, overlapping each layer slightly. Alternatively, use a pipe joint compound specifically designed for plumbing applications. Apply the compound evenly around the threads. When tightening the connection, use two wrenches: one to hold the pipe steady and the other to tighten the spigot. Tighten the spigot until it is snug, but avoid excessive force, which can damage the threads or the spigot body. Overtightening can actually cause leaks by stripping the threads. After tightening, slowly turn on the water supply and check for leaks. If you see any leaks, tighten the connection slightly more. If the leak persists, you may need to disassemble the connection, clean the threads, reapply Teflon tape or pipe joint compound, and reassemble the connection. A new spigot that is leaking from the stem itself could also be defective and need to be returned.
Should I use Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads?
Both Teflon tape (also known as plumber’s tape) and pipe dope (also called thread sealant or pipe joint compound) are acceptable for sealing the threads of a new outdoor water spigot, but pipe dope is generally preferred for this application. Pipe dope tends to provide a more reliable and long-lasting seal, especially on larger fittings or those subject to temperature fluctuations and outdoor conditions. However, proper application is key for either material.
Teflon tape creates a seal by compressing between the threads as you tighten the connection. It’s clean and easy to apply, but it can be prone to tearing or bunching up if not wrapped correctly, and it doesn’t fill imperfections in the threads as well as pipe dope. If you choose to use Teflon tape, wrap it tightly in the direction of the threads (usually clockwise when looking at the male fitting) overlapping each layer by about half. Use 3-4 wraps. Pipe dope, on the other hand, is a paste-like compound that fills the gaps between the threads, creating a more robust seal. It also acts as a lubricant, making it easier to tighten the fitting without damaging the threads. When applying pipe dope, use a brush to evenly coat the male threads, ensuring you get full coverage. Avoid applying it to the first few threads to prevent contamination of the water supply. After applying either Teflon tape or pipe dope, always tighten the connection to the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification to ensure a proper seal.
What if the old spigot is frozen or rusted in place?
If the old spigot is frozen or rusted in place, applying penetrating oil and using heat are your best options for removal. You should start with penetrating oil, giving it ample time to work, and then proceed to heat application if necessary, always being mindful of fire hazards and nearby materials.
Penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, is specifically designed to loosen rusted connections. Apply it liberally to the joint where the spigot threads into the pipe. Allow it to soak in for at least 15-30 minutes, or even longer if possible, reapplying periodically. The oil works its way into the rust and corrosion, breaking down the bond and making it easier to unscrew the spigot. After soaking, try using your pipe wrench or adjustable wrench again. Apply steady pressure rather than jerking motions, as sudden force can damage the pipe. If penetrating oil alone doesn’t do the trick, carefully apply heat to the threaded area. A propane torch is the most common tool for this. However, exercise extreme caution. Ensure there are no flammable materials nearby, and have a fire extinguisher readily available. Briefly heat the fitting for a few seconds, then immediately try to loosen the spigot. The heat expands the metal, which can help break the rust’s grip. Avoid overheating, which could damage the pipe or nearby connections. A heat gun may be a safer alternative than an open flame, though possibly less effective on severely rusted connections. If neither method works after repeated attempts, consider calling a licensed plumber. Continuing to force a frozen or rusted spigot can lead to broken pipes inside the wall, resulting in significantly more extensive and costly repairs. A plumber will have specialized tools and experience to safely remove the stubborn spigot without damaging the plumbing.
How do I choose a freeze-proof outdoor water spigot?
Selecting a freeze-proof outdoor spigot hinges on ensuring it’s long enough to extend inside your home’s heated space and equipped with a backflow preventer. Look for frost-free spigots with a length suitable for your wall thickness and consider models with vacuum breakers to prevent back-siphoning, meeting local plumbing codes.
When choosing a frost-free spigot, accurately measure the thickness of your exterior wall. The critical dimension is from the exterior surface of the wall to the point where the water supply pipe is located inside your heated space. The length of the frost-free spigot must exceed this measurement to ensure the valve seat (the point where the water shuts off) is located within the warm interior of your house. If the valve seat is within the unheated portion of the wall, water can remain trapped in the pipe, freeze, and cause the spigot to burst. Consider the material of the spigot as well. Brass is a common and durable choice, while some models may incorporate stainless steel components for added corrosion resistance. Check for a backflow preventer or vacuum breaker; these prevent contaminated water from flowing back into your potable water supply, protecting your family and neighbors. Many municipalities require these features, so be sure to check your local plumbing codes before purchasing and installing a new spigot. Finally, read online reviews from other homeowners to gauge the spigot’s performance and durability in cold weather climates. This can provide valuable insights into real-world performance beyond the manufacturer’s specifications.
And that’s all there is to it! Hopefully, you’re now enjoying a leak-free outdoor spigot and feeling pretty handy. Thanks for following along, and we hope you’ll come back soon for more easy DIY guides and helpful tips!