That incessant drip, drip, drip… driving you mad, wasting water, and slowly eroding your sanity? A leaky bathtub faucet with two handles is a common household nuisance, but thankfully, it’s often a problem you can tackle yourself. Ignoring a dripping faucet doesn’t just mean a higher water bill; it can also lead to mineral buildup, staining your tub, and even damaging the valve over time. Taking the DIY route saves you money on plumber fees and gives you the satisfaction of fixing something yourself.
Understanding the mechanics of your two-handle faucet allows you to pinpoint the issue and address it effectively. While there are various types of faucets, the general principles of disassembly, inspection, and part replacement remain consistent. Don’t be intimidated! With a few basic tools and a little patience, you can silence that drip and restore your bathtub faucet to perfect working order.
What tools do I need and what parts might be worn out?
How do I identify which side (hot or cold) is leaking?
The easiest way to determine which side is leaking is to isolate each handle and observe. Start by completely shutting off both hot and cold water supply valves located beneath the bathtub or in an access panel. Then, open *both* faucet handles to relieve any residual pressure in the lines. Next, close *both* handles tightly. Now, slowly open *only* the hot water supply valve. Watch the faucet spout closely. If water drips, the hot water side is leaking. Close the hot water supply, open both handles again to relieve pressure, and then close both handles. Repeat the process, but this time open *only* the cold water supply valve. If it drips, the cold side is leaking.
To be absolutely certain, you can repeat the process a few times, ensuring the handles are fully closed each time you isolate a water line. Sometimes, a very slow drip might be harder to detect initially. Look closely for any water beading or trickling down the spout. Feel the spout with your finger; even a small amount of moisture indicates a leak. Another helpful trick is to dry the faucet spout completely with a clean cloth before testing each side. This will make even the smallest drip more visible. You can also place a small, shallow container beneath the spout to catch any drips. After a minute or two of isolating a side, check the container to see if it contains any water. This method helps confirm whether the leak is truly isolated to one side or if there might be a more complex issue affecting both hot and cold water lines.
What size wrench do I need for the faucet stem?
Unfortunately, there’s no single answer to the wrench size question. Faucet stem nuts come in various sizes, typically ranging from 9/16 inch to 1 inch or even larger. The best approach is to visually inspect the nut and try different sized wrenches or an adjustable wrench until you find a snug fit. Using the wrong size can damage the nut.
The most common strategy is to start with an adjustable (crescent) wrench, carefully adjusting it to fit snugly around the stem nut. Be sure the wrench jaws are firmly gripping the nut before applying pressure to loosen it. Another approach is to assemble a small set of open-end wrenches or socket wrenches in common sizes (9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4") and try each until you find the one that fits best. The goal is to minimize slippage and potential damage. If you’re working on an older faucet, the nut might be corroded or misshapen, making it even harder to determine the correct size. In these cases, penetrating oil can help loosen the nut and make it easier to remove. After applying the oil, let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes before attempting to loosen the nut again. Sometimes, gently tapping the wrench with a hammer can also help break the corrosion bond. Always be mindful of applying excessive force that could damage the faucet body or pipes.
How do I remove the handle without damaging it?
The key to removing a bathtub faucet handle without causing damage is to be patient and gentle. Most handles are held in place by either a setscrew (often hidden under a decorative cap) or by being screwed directly onto the valve stem. Never force the handle; identify the fastening mechanism and address it properly.
First, carefully inspect the handle for a decorative cap or button. These are often located on the front or top of the handle and conceal a setscrew. Use a small, flat-head screwdriver or a thin knife to gently pry off the cap. Once the cap is removed, you should see a setscrew. Use the appropriate Allen wrench (hex key) to loosen the setscrew. Once loose, you should be able to gently pull the handle straight off the valve stem. If there’s no setscrew, the handle is likely screwed directly onto the valve stem. In this case, simply grip the handle firmly and turn it counterclockwise to unscrew it. If the handle is stuck, resist the urge to use excessive force. Instead, try applying a penetrating oil lubricant, such as WD-40, around the base of the handle and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. This can help to dissolve any mineral buildup or corrosion that may be causing the handle to stick. You can also try gently tapping around the base of the handle with a rubber mallet to help loosen it. If all else fails, a handle puller tool (available at most hardware stores) can be used to safely remove stubborn handles without damaging them.
What type of replacement washers do I need?
You’ll need replacement faucet washers that are the correct size and style for your specific bathtub faucet. Generally, you’ll need either flat rubber washers, beveled washers, or O-rings, and the size will depend on the valve stem in your faucet. The best way to determine the correct type is to physically remove one of the old washers and take it to your local hardware store for comparison.
Once you’ve disassembled the faucet and removed the old washer, you can accurately identify its type. Flat washers are simple, circular rubber discs. Beveled washers have a slanted edge that conforms to the valve seat. O-rings are rubber rings that fit into a groove. Note the size of the inner and outer diameter and the thickness of the washer; this will ensure a proper seal. Bring the old washer with you to the hardware store to compare it directly with the new options. Hardware stores often have specialized faucet repair kits organized by brand or style. These kits can be helpful if you’re unsure about the exact replacement parts, as they contain an assortment of common washers and O-rings that might fit your faucet. If you have the brand and model number of your faucet, providing this information to the store staff can help them locate the correct replacement washers more quickly.
What if the faucet still drips after replacing the washers?
If your bathtub faucet continues to drip after replacing the washers, the problem likely lies with a damaged valve seat, mineral buildup preventing a tight seal, or a worn-out faucet body. Further troubleshooting is required to pinpoint the exact cause and implement the correct solution.
Replacing the washers is often the first step, but it’s not a guaranteed fix for all leaky faucets. The valve seat, against which the washer presses to stop the flow of water, can develop corrosion, pitting, or other imperfections over time. Even a tiny imperfection can prevent the new washer from creating a watertight seal. Inspect the valve seat carefully for any visible damage. You can often repair minor imperfections with a valve seat dressing tool, also known as a seat reamer. If the damage is extensive, the valve seat may need to be replaced entirely, which can be a more involved process. Mineral buildup from hard water is another common culprit. Even with new washers, mineral deposits can interfere with the washer’s ability to properly seat against the valve seat. Try cleaning the area around the valve seat with a vinegar solution and a small brush to remove any buildup. For particularly stubborn deposits, you might need a specialized descaling solution. Finally, though less common, the faucet body itself could be cracked or corroded, leading to leaks even with new washers and clean valve seats. In this case, replacing the entire faucet assembly may be the only reliable solution. Remember to always turn off the water supply before attempting any repairs and consider consulting a plumber if you are uncomfortable with any of these steps.
How do I shut off the water supply to the bathtub faucet?
The most common way to shut off the water supply to a bathtub faucet, especially for a two-handle faucet, is by locating and turning off the shut-off valves for both the hot and cold water lines that feed the faucet. These valves are usually located in an access panel behind the bathtub, in the basement directly below the bathroom, or sometimes in a nearby closet or hallway.
If you cannot find dedicated shut-off valves for the bathtub, the next step would be to shut off the main water supply to the entire house. This is typically located near the water meter, either inside your home (often in the basement or garage) or outside in a buried box near the street. Once you’ve located the main shut-off valve, turn it clockwise until the water flow stops completely. Before proceeding, it’s wise to test that the water is indeed shut off by briefly turning on the bathtub faucet; only a small amount of residual water should come out. Once the water supply is shut off, you can proceed with repairing the leaky faucet. Remember to open the lowest faucet in the house to drain any remaining water from the pipes, reducing the pressure and minimizing any potential mess. After completing the repair, slowly turn the water supply back on, checking for any new leaks around the repaired faucet or the shut-off valves.
And that’s all there is to it! Hopefully, you’ve now got a drip-free tub and a little more confidence under your belt. Thanks for following along, and don’t be a stranger! Come on back anytime you’ve got another DIY fix on your hands; we’re always happy to help.